The thoroughly European, and pointedly English, aesthetic of this textile's scrolling branches belies its origin as an embroidery worked in India for export to the West. Roses, carnations, and fantastic tendrils bloom from arching floral vines worked with a tambour hook using silk threads on a twilled cotton ground. Indian tambour embroidery of this period is unsurpassed for its fineness and delicacy. This panel requires close examination to see the method by which it was made.
This panel is a rare survival demonstrating the circular nature of Indo-European trade in the eighteenth century. The point of reference for the florals on a neutral ground are the brocaded dress silks produced at Spitalfields in London during the 1740s, here translated into the distinctive tambour embroidery of Gujarat, to be exported back to England.