Gentlemen's Costume

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Green Silk Damask Coat, English, mid-18th c.




Man's silk damask coat with large-scale floral and foliate pattern and elaborate passementerie closures and cuff trimming; the silk English Spitalfields in the style of Anna Maria Garthwaite, ca. 1742-43; altered in the mid-18th century from a looser fitting Banyan; the original loops for closure on interior left side.

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Embroidered Waistcoat, British, mid-18th c.

This splendid waistcoat illustrates the vogue in England for yellow silk embroidery on linen ground that decorated both dress and furnishings in the early eighteenth century.

Although the design is not symmetrically arranged on the fronts, the waistcoat was nonetheless embroidered to shape. As was customary, only the parts visible under the coat were embellished, leaving the upper sleeves and back plain.

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Embroidered waistcoat 18th c.

Crewelwork Waistcoat, British, ca. 1735-45


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A profusion of color and pattern creates an eye-catching effect in this man's waistcoat from the mid-eighteenth century. The shading of the floral-and-foliate motifs and their naturalistic rendering are typical of British woven silks and needlework during the rococo period.

The range of stitches in this example - satin, long-and-short, stem, and French knots - and the twilled linen and cotton ground are characteristic of crewelwork pieces, both dress and furnishing, that were executed by women at home.

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