In
1911, renowned couturier Paul Poiret (1879-1944) established
the Atelier Martine,
named after his daughter, as a decorative arts school for
young girls. Inspired by the Wiener Werkstatte studios in Vienna,
Poiret envisioned his own enterprise for creating
unified, modern interiors. Students at the atelier were encouraged
to
work from
nature
and were often
taken to
public
gardens, zoological parks, and museums for instruction. Poiret's
role, in his own words, was "...to stimulate students' activity
and
taste
without influencing them or criticising, so that the source
of their inspirations should be kept pure and intact...." The
girls' designs, typically boldly colored gouaches or pastels,
were then edited by Poiret and those most suitable for reproduction
were chosen. Exuberant floral patterns, as seen on this wood-block
printed cotton, were applied to textiles for fashions and furnishings,
as templates for embroideries and carpets, and were also used
to enliven ceramics and murals.
Upholstered furniture and
carpets from the Atelier Martine were recently on display in Poiret:
King of Fashion at the Metropolitan
Museum of Art, New York.
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