WOMEN'S SHOES OF BROCADED SILK TOBINE
English or American (with American family history), ca. 1750s
Of delicate materials and
sinuous lines, these mid-eighteenth-century
ladies' shoes highlight the confluence
of Rococo and feminine ideals of the age.
Women of quality dressed lavishly from head
to toe, and accessories were of utmost importance
in completing an elegant toilette. The colors
and fabrics of fashionable women's shoes
typically reflected the splendor of their
clothing; on occasion shoes were made to
match specific ensembles, but more often
they were paired with similarly hued gowns
for a coordinated effect.
Though the construction of eighteenth-century shoes was relatively uncomplicated, it required specialized skills. In the hands of the cobbler, expensive silks were manipulated into shoes of refinement befitting the ladies who wore them. Uppers and soles were cut out separately and then adapted to the shape of the last, which was for most of the century the same for both feet. Once stitched together, shoes were usually lined with kid, silk or canvas, and the combination of fragile materials forming the whole called for a high degree of expertise. In 1747, The
London Tradesman reported: “It is much more ingenious to make a Woman's shoe than a Man's: Few are good at both, they are frequently two distinct Branches; the Woman's Shoemaker requires much neater Seams as the Materials are much finer. They employ Women to bind their shoes and sew the Quarters together, when they are made of Silk, Damask or Calimanco.” The silk used here, dating to ca. 1748-50, is a prime example of the Spitalfields (London) weaving industry production at mid-century. The essence of English Rococo was typically distilled into naturalistic rendering of botanical detail with flowers casually scattered across an open ground, often ivory in color, in asymmetrical arrangements suggesting fresh gatherings from field or garden. This particular weave—called tobine during the period—is characterized by ribs that create an appearance of small monochrome checks and often featured self-colored patterning and brocaded floral motifs, such as seen here. Roses and buds, in shades of pink, red and brown, decorate the rounded toes, not exactly matching in terms of placement but each one echoing the other; the sculpted, covered heels are precisely matched and display apricot carnations on stems. Elsewhere on the quarters are hints of peach and blue flowers, as well as curling green leaves. Pale robin's egg-blue silk tape binds the dogleg seams and latchets, which were secured by paste or metal buckles for decorative flourish
The American provenance
of these shoes connects them to Fanny Bemis
(1771-1852), daughter of Sarah Bemis
(néeWhite, born in Framingham, Massachusetts
in 1737 and died in Spencer, Massachusetts,
1791). They may have been the shoes worn
on the occasion of Sarah White's marriage
to Joshua Bemis (1729-1789) on September
18th, 1755. These shoes are likely of English
origin and were imported, as the luxury shoe
industry in the Colonies, though burgeoning
in the 1750s was not fully established until
the end of the century; it is, however, possible
that they were made in an American workshop
catering to a wealthy clientele.
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