French (Lyon)
Further images
Exhibitions
Two manufacturer samples of Moorish Revival jacquard-woven silk in the style of Owen Jones, with large-scale symmetrical design with floral palmettes, hybrid artichoke forms, scrolls, stepped brackets, and enclosing ogive in vivid shades of red, pale yellow, turquoise blue, green, purple, and ivory; the motifs bound in twill on satin ground.
The thoughtfully articulated revivalism and technically advanced weaving are sure indicators that these were produced at one of Lyon’s powerhouse silk manufactures in the 1860s or 1870s, when the mania for Moorish-style ornament peaked. The numeric stamps specifying the patron numbers have not yet been attached to a particular firm; however, Mathevon et Bouvard, Lemire, and Lamy et Giraud were known for their mauresques. Related silks attributed to these firms are published in Sue Kerry, Neo-Classicism to Pop: Late 18th & 19th Century Textiles (London: Francesca Galloway, 2007), pp. 80–85. Other related examples are in the collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and Mobilier National (GMMP 1657).
Excellent, unused condition.